The bag of death

Can we really blame Primark for the death toll of Bangladesh factory workers of over 350? This is the current total and after 5 days the search for survivors has ended. Now it is a matter of finding bodies.

The facts are the owner of the factory got greedy and added 3 floors to a building that should only have been 5 storeys high. The workers are paid very low wages and the economy is dependant on producing garments for the Western economies.

It wasn't only Primark whose goods were being made there, Mango was another retailer and also a Canadian high st brand. Yet Primark is the go to place for really cheap clothing.

This really cheap clothing is keeping people in poverty, it is now causing them to die and it is about time we stopped shopping like this. From henceforth the Primark bag is the 'bag of death'.

image:EPA

Film, Fashion & Consumption

Normally Friday is all about the fun factor, the weekend is upon us and our hair is being let down. However this Friday is about Film & Fashion and how they affect patterns of consumer culture.

Look at any fashion blog and read any interview with a designer and there will be a cinematic reference. Belle De jour, Breakfast at Tiffany's are the obvious ones, my personal favourite is L'eclisse. You will have your own!

Now I don't expect you all to be rushing out to dive headlong in to academic discourse on this subject matter but if you are a film or fashion student or you are looking for something more meaty and less about dictators or bankers wives than Vogue then Film, Fashion & Consumption (Intellect Press) is for you. Less pretty pictures more words, it will challenge your grey cells and absorb you in the trappings of cultural capital.

The journal is edited by Pamela Church Gibson from the London College of Fashion and the associate editors are Hollywood Catwalk author Tamar Jeffers McDonald and Central College St Martin's Alastair O'Neill.

Belle de jour (1967)

Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961)

L'eclisse (1962)

Like buses three come along at once...

...yep I fell in Zara and Topshop and purchased a few things! The good point is two of the clothes I bought were spur of the moment. My new wonderful Helmut Lang trousers sent by Queen Marie excited me so much I felt inspired. So when I went out to get some food and necessary sundries I sort of popped into Zara...as you do and spied a great skirt which is very Celine like but falls outside of the leather homage going on everywhere.

It's a gorgeous colour and a great fit and length. Not too short and semi A-line which looks and feels super. I can carry it on for next season too. It was a good price as well at £39.99.

Then I thought oh well a quick look in Topshop - can't hurt. Not Oxford Circus so I had the joy of flicking through the 'get it before it goes/last chance' rail. And of course I found a wonderful top.


Peachy perfect. Great detail, a lovely blush colour with enough of a pink/apricot hue to make it current and look super stylish in a 1930s vintage way.

The back is the modern twist with the obvious gold zip detail. The left sleeve has a slight imperfection on the sleeve. The stitching on the zipper seam is bunch in one bit. Therefore I got 10% off. I won't pay full retail price if there is any imperfection. The top looks wonderful with skirts, trousers and jeans.

Then on Friday I was working and I got a jumpsuit which I'd decided was a necessary item for work from Topshop Oxford Circus. I was lucky as it was no longer an item on the shop floor and but there were a few in the store room. When I first spied it I was on the no fritter challenge so didn't buy. Also I got it as part of my work so technically it was free! I wore it for work on Saturday and it was wonderful. Often I need to be hands on and my jumpsuit was stylish but gave me freedom to move. I love it.


I definitely appreciate my purchases more for not having bought anything since November 2009. I'm more picky and the item has to add something great to my wardrobe. I feel these pieces will be worn and worn until they fall off me. I was too tired to pose and prance over the weekend what with work and gardening! Don't laugh I've got peas, beans, spinach, raspberries, potatoes and strawberries plus chilli's on the go. My toil ruined my Chanel nail varnish though.

How on earth

Does one shake oneself out of something? This is as much about shock as it is about our patterns particularly when it comes to clothes. I have to admit to never once being shocked nor moved by a 'celebrity' death. But, when one of your peers goes and tops themselves that is shocking. Mr MDS of course is completely unmoved by the death of McQueen and in a move akin to a sniper asked if I had any of his clothes as sales were up by 143%. I told him (politely) I actually had never been able to afford him, which is partly true but also I hadn't really chosen to by anything by him. Which is quite bonkers as we both shared a love of red dresses, oriental classicism of the Paul Poiret sort and are both rebels.

The point is how on earth do we choose our connections. This goes for people we admire, brands we buy into and items we select for our wardrobe. There are limits to our choices based on money and availability of items (those infuriating waiting lists) but Alexander McQueen has not to my knowledge been a subject of waiting list for a particular item, although his skull rings flew out of Liberty et al.

This debate is about the brand, not the person, whether PPR, the Gucci group should or will keep the brand of Alexander McQueen now that Lee McQueen has passed away (I wish he had rather than...but this isn't about the how or why).

My view, and it is just a view, is that the brand should be no more, after a decent period of course. I'm sure there is a something to be made of, or salvaged from the collection, despite the fact the show was cancelled. I also think there is a few years of accessories sales as a concession point in high value department stores. The scarves, the bags and whatever else has a period of longevity. This would be a good move, after all there is the balance of investment verses return.

You see the beauty of the brand is in the drama, the creative spirit. I'm probably a lone soul in my condemnation of the YSL brand without Yves Sant Laurant. I am nothing but a pedant when it comes to fashion lineage. YSL stopped, to me that was the end. All that was bought was a name.

I know many will point to the success of Lanvin and its resurrection under Alber Elbaz and in time we will see regarding Vionnet. I suppose there might be some brave soul out there who would dare to be Elsa Schiaparelli. The difference in the resurrection of a house and the continuation depends on the handover, circumstances and the point. To me I see no point in pretending in the circumstances that there is a natural successor, someone who can take up the reins nor will there be. Paul Poiret and Alexander McQueen are designers whose creative flair and genius comes about every so often.

There are always reasons for things to ebb and flow and whilst fashions is a business, creative talent cannot be created just like that. Countless bloggers have used the Kate Moss hologram as a display of McQueen's creative genius, it is obviously a moment of sheer thrill and amazement. Yet, I've selected this image of Erin O'Connor in his Spring/Summer 2001 because it truly is the nearest thing in a ready to wear collection that one would expect in a couture collection. And no one other than Lee McQueen could have delivered this, nor will anyone else under the umbrella of the Alexander McQueen brand - how an earth could they.

Thought of the week - Contentment

When The Mercer Hotel in New York sent me a Happy New Year card last week, it brought a smile to my face.
My first thought was the fact they'd never sent me a card before when I was a good customer. Now I'm not a customer they must be chasing me to become one again, are times hard(er)? It was however, pleasant to be transported back to a glamorous time. A time when my friend and I would often say 'Ah the glamour of it all' as we were flown in by helicopter to the Monza F1 grand prix. When a shop was in order, off it was to New York or Milan. Selfridges was just a lunch time browse. I recalled popping into Gucci on Bond Street to help a colleague choose a belt and how I casually bought a bag without it denting my salary.

I haven't stayed at The Mercer since 2007 and in those three years I've become a make do, currently penniless soon to be awarded a Master's degree person, contemplating doing a Ph.D. I envisage a scenario where someone calls out 'is there a doctor' in a public place and I say 'yes' but of course I would only be a doctor in fashion so the most help I'd be is to advice the person in need of medical assistance not be caught short in that dreadful outfit again. Hardly a way to make friends and impress people!

Yet I used to be impressed by money and wealth. I was never wealthy enough to be considered rich. I was never stopped at Heathrow after a long weekend in NYC as I was hardly worth the effort, in fact my poor suitcase looked dreadful after a mauling by the US customs when I went to Philadelphia. Now I can't afford to buy a new one. What impressed my about money was the lifestyle you could lead. How it bought an ease. People did things for you, like open the door and when I stayed at The Mercer I could skip across to Prada and browse and they'd show me things give me coffee or champagne even though I rarely bought. It was the experience. However I became inured of it all to dull the sheer boredom and stress that was my job. This year will be the sixth year of my escape from corporate hell.

Working in a corporate is not hell to all. We all have different purposes and likes. This is a good thing we enjoy different things, but for me I felt like a caged animal. Shopping, wine, restaurants, travel etc. were a lifestyle addiction to compensate for the fact I hated my job. I couldn't articulate my dislike because it wasn't the companies fault, nor my colleagues, even the ones I viewed as idiots, no it was me. I was never cut out for it. I remember driving to work some days with the rest of the commuters and thinking what if we all just go home and refuse to pay our mortgages. This was not what others were thinking.

Being content is much underrated. Happiness is the one that gets all the focus - finding happiness is the holy grail. I prefer being content. Contentment means even when you feel a bit down you don't have any pressure. When you feel content you can look but not be envious; you can want but shrug your shoulders and still smile. You value the toothless person who asks you the time as much as business person who buys you coffee when you have a meeting in Carluccios.

I actually gave up my marketing job nearly six years ago and thanks to a generous payout and my work as a stylist I had time and money on my side for a while. Which again to some extent I squandered. Now in my content (but not smug) state I can safely say you won't find contentment in perfection (home, job, setting the dinner table just so), but you will find it by not setting your standards too high. You won't find contentment by using your credit card on an item you haven't got cash for, but if you manage on your income, paying bills first, having a contingency fund you'll feel easier. Planning for a pension will drive you up the wall regardless given the systematic abuse of pension funds by bankers et al.

Contentment is not a Chanel 2.55 bag*, it is appreciation of your life and well being - which doesn't mean to say luxury doesn't have its place but pleasure should be found in the humdrum of existence as well. If we could somehow all of us across the world find contentment then compassion will heal more suffering and question the defining drive of materialistic gain that cost lives. In the developing world poverty and disease kill but in the developed world a sense of worth costs countless lives. Last week many of us in the blogging community were shocked by news of a suicide that has immense implications for a family. Whilst money isn't the long term answer to such a matter in the short term it will provided food and sustenance. If you have a moment do read this post.

So apologies to The Mercer, what with Haiti and fellow bloggers in need, I'm afraid I'll keep the memories for now.

* I still want one. I'll freely admit to this shallow desire but it doesn't define me and it won't make me happy- well just a smidgen!

The shrine of conspicuous consumption!

In the days of my travels to New York, Paris and Milan , rarely thank goodness for the fashion shows. I have to say New York was and always will be my favourite place to shop. My first luxury lust was in Paris but then I was a poor fashion assistant journalist who had no money and when I was that person with money, I was working hard in Paris with no time for shopping! Although, somehow I always fulfilled the family beauty orders. My mother's sister is addicted to Guinot, which is only sold in beauty salons in the UK. I am addicted to BioDerma's Crealine H2O so always stock up in France.


My first designer handbag purchase was at Gucci in Milan - a beautiful leather old school small hobo. It is as chestnut as the best racehorse and the leather is sheer bliss. My best fun in Milan was always in Prada's shop in the Gallerie Vittorio Emanuele II, for some reason I reverted to a silly schoolgirl messing about on a Saturday afternoon in Dolcis and used to try on loads of shoes there in the downstairs and never buy a single pair. Mind you I'd always been having a lunchtime tipple with friends in the Piazza del Duomo.


But it is in New York that the experience moves into another bracket. The service is unforgettable. If its bad you can have a good old ding dong and be satisfied! My best argument was in Starbucks in Trump Tower and it was extremely satisfactory for both me and the girl serving. I'm surprised we didn't high five after it! I do like the rudeness factor in New York - its all give and take, whereas in London, stroppiness is one step away from a straight jacket.


And just when the memory of your NYC trip is fading you get a little card from Gucci or Bergdorf to thank you for you custom. Sometimes even a Christmas card. Not only have you got the goods but you've got a keepsake of the moment you bought them. Mind you it is only the shoe and bag people that do this.


Except for one of my Bergdorf excursions but for good reason! I couldn't get my size shoes in the Manolo shop on 54th street so went to Barneys, then Bergdorf. In Bergdorf not only did I have fun with the rich old ladies who take their dogs out in plush pushchairs to shop, but I encountered the only straight guy in the store. If it has been an episode of SATC, I would have channelled Samantha and had fun in the store cupboard. Being more like Charlotte, I bought the shoes but it really is the only time I have ever flirted with a sales assistant and the only time I didn't get a card -shame!


In these times of doom and gloom I decided to create my shrine of conspicuous consumption a la NYC, and bow down to such good times!

My New York footwear and bag purchases. I realised I left my half insole in my Manolo!

Smile through consumption crisis

I have to confess to rather neglecting my Fashion & Film blog and if I could find the extra time I'd be going to the gym instead as I need to! However, yesterday one of my lectures delivers a great insight into female transformation as portrayed by Hollywood.

I'm not going to give away too much seeing as our visiting lecturer has a book coming out about it sometime soon, I feel obliged to wait and go into more depth then!

But one film example we looked at played out the double whammy of transformation and consumption comprehensively in the opening sequence - Thoroughly Modern Millie Now I love this film despite it's 1960s interpretation of 1920s costumes. It is a totally uplifting, fun film. Interestingly musicals as a genre have remained very few and far between since the lifting of the Hays Code.

But back to the opening sequence...Julie Andrews as Millie undertakes a walk, a walk along a street that results in a complete transformation of her look. she loses her curls, long frock coat, big hat and lace up boots to become a flapper complete with cloche hat, bobbed hair, long beads and short dress. At each step of her transformation Millie appears from the relevant places, hairdressers, dress shop etc extremely happy until she spies something else that is missing. She loses the smile on her face and her walk slows down as the realisation of not having it quite right dawns upon her.

And there we have it the perfect juxtaposition of looking good and never being completely satisfied...there is always something else. This is pure consumption. We are caught up in the consumption process and that's why we are never quite satisfied. Always looking for the perfect handbag, lipstick or dress that will make us complete.