Thought of the Week - Focus and Fashion

Much as one wishes not to be a doom monger - it is going to be tough times ahead in the UK. Even the US is seeing more than a recovery with a 3.8% growth rate compared to our ...well zero ish one. We have a bit of a deficit, but I'm not worried about it in the way many are comparing us to Greece, but more the measures that will be taken to tackle it. What does this have to do with fashion you ask?
When it comes personal purchases more thoughtful and strategic decisions will need to be made if your disposable income is hit by greater taxation, higher bills. I will complete a series of posts on Project 100; which will be designed for those of you who want to have a flexible but fab wardrobe but have to take care with your finances. This won't be relevant to all but for those of you who have your focus on other matters I hope it will help you to use your money wisely and make some great purchases.

The main impact will be on the focus of the fashion houses - they will be looking ever Eastward as the rate of growth and disposable incomes increase in China and India. The European and American cash flow is beginning to bite. Think back a few years to Samantha and the Hermes Birkin bag episode 'Coulda, Woulda, Shoulda' in series 4 - well there is no wait list now!

What sells well by the big players will define the catwalks over the coming seasons. My only sure bet is, it won't be the Grecian look. What do you think? Hard fashion times ahead?

Thought for the week -compassion costs nothing

I promise I'll move on from death after this post. But in my no fritter and therefore no spending world I'm currently living in I can explore other things other than the shops. Although I do have to go and check out new stock next week.



Also it was with a sense of utter disbelieve that I read this article.
What a load of rubbish and anecdotal evidence, it read like a page filler. I'm sure McQueen has mentioned on many an occasion about hating fashion, that is perfectly normal when you work in any industry. What teacher, doctor, lawyer to name a few hasn't uttered the same thing about their professions.

Then the constant drawing upon his drug abuse, blah, blah. Basically I don't think anyone can know how grief will hit them. Any view on the why is speculation, grief was the cause and it manifests itself in many ways.



Equally, I realised that I had no idea what to do when someone losses someone they love. Of course I've lost family and friends but in the main this has been elderly relatives. I haven't lost a husband, mother, child, father, wife, sibling etc. The immediacy of these relationships have a devastating effect. When my grandpa died I lay in bed for 2 days in a darken room far from home at university. I travelled home and found everyone had been paralysed in some way by his loss. I set about finalising the funeral arrangements, signing the death certificate and sat waiting on the wall of my grandparents house for the funeral car on the day of his funeral. I also stayed with my grandma for a week afterwards. But I was free, with no responsibilities no children, mortgage, or job - how would I find the time or mange now? I really don't know. What would anyone be able to do for me if I was in Lee McQueen's shoes. As my dad says you never get over losing your mother.

I found some useful advice on how to listen and this forms the basis of my post. Listening and being there are two important factors in helping with grief and loss, but I also think we can add doing practical things like, washing, preparing food, cleaning the house, shopping - in fact all manner of things. I'm not suggesting for a moment one can prevent an overwhelming response to grief but I do think we can step back from the day to day and take time out for friends or family to help them in times of distress. The bereaved need to feel that their loss is acknowledged, it’s not too terrible to talk about, and their loved one won’t be forgotten.

While you should never try to force someone to open up, it’s important to let the bereaved know they have permission to talk about the loss. Talk candidly about the person who died and don’t steer away from the subject if the deceased’s name comes up. When it seems appropriate, ask sensitive questions – without being nosy – that invite the grieving person to openly express his or her feelings. Try simply asking, “Do you feel like talking?”

• Accept and acknowledge all feelings. Let the grieving person know that it’s okay to cry in front of you, to get angry, or to break down. Don’t try to reason with them over how they should or shouldn’t feel. The bereaved should feel free to express their feelings, without fear of judgment, argument, or criticism.

• Be willing to sit in silence. Don’t press if the grieving person doesn’t feel like talking. You can offer comfort and support with your silent presence. If you can’t think of something to say, just offer eye contact, a squeeze of the hand, or a reassuring hug.

• Let the bereaved talk about how their loved one died. People who are grieving may need to tell the story over and over again, sometimes in minute detail. Be patient. Repeating the story is a way of processing and accepting the death. With each retelling, the pain lessens.

• Offer comfort and reassurance without minimizing the loss. Tell the bereaved that what they’re feeling is okay. If you’ve gone through a similar loss, share your own experience if you think it would help. However, don’t give unsolicited advice, claim to “know” what the person is feeling, or compare your grief to theirs.

Comments to avoid when comforting the bereaved

• "I know how you feel." One can never know how another may feel. You could, instead, ask your friend to tell you how he or she feels.
• "It's part of God's plan." This phrase can make people angry and they often respond with, "What plan? Nobody told me about any plan."
• "Look at what you have to be thankful for." They know they have things to be thankful for, but right now they are not important.
• "He's in a better place now." The bereaved may or may not believe this. Keep your beliefs to yourself unless asked.
• "This is behind you now; it's time to get on with your life." Sometimes the bereaved are resistant to getting on with because they feel this means "forgetting" their loved one. In addition, moving on is easier said than done. Grief has a mind of its own and works at its own pace.
• Statements that begin with "You should" or "You will." These statements are too directive. Instead you could begin your comments with: "Have you thought about. . ." or "You might. . ."

The advice on what not to say is taken from the American Hospice Foundation, which I thought was very useful because I think we are all guilty of offering up something like 'he's in a better place now'. I also discovered that if anyone said they wanted to die or couldn't cope or go on then act immediately, don't leave them alone and get professional help.

Reading through the many websites I was struck by a great deal of tenderness and when Chanel said that fashion is all around us and so forth, one can't help but wonder if broderie anglaise is the right way to go! Perhaps a little less 'fierce' would be a start...

Thought for the week - keeping it clean

Dries Van Noten A/W 2000

I was pillaging the show archives of Style.com last week for a forthcoming project. I was particularly impresses that the ready to wear and couture archives do go back to 2000 and I'm sure if I put in a request there would be a few for the end of the 20th century.

One thing I got struck by - possibly with the exception of Galliano was how under styled most of the shows were. Now a runway show has to not just sell the clothes but a whole look to boot. I'm not saying that shows didn't focus on hair, makeup, shoes or necklaces before but I was struck how the shift has gone more to creating ideas than garments. Not every designer resorts to this, Balmain is a case in point. The A/W 2009 collection was the most translated to the high street and it is no co-incidence the presentation of the collection was almost peachy clean in respect of the clothes doing the talking.

Balmain A/W 2009

It seems the stylist has blurred the old school routine of catwalk to editorial to consumer. Now its is collection to consumer (partly due to blogging) with magazines having to shoot fashion in more creative ways. Most consumers are not blogging and still get their collection visions from a wealth of fashion magazines, and those who don't read anything other than Country Living or the Boden catalogue, don't. (I did buy this months Country Living, it seemed the right thing to do on a shop in Waitrose) For some clothes and dressing passes them by.

I'm not suggesting for one minute that the spectacle of a show shouldn't happen but I was transported back to a time, not that long ago, when quelle horreur the front row was comprised of fashion editors and buyers and flat shoes were on some of their feet. Although the designer was presenting a collection for you to buy into, there seemed less of a desire to control the overall interpretation.

Don't get me wrong I do like a shift in makeup and hair but I'm beginning to understand why Wintour stays within a look that not only transcends the vagaries of design but enables her to access the merits of a collection with a more dispassionate eye.

Marc Jacobs A/W 2000

Dries Van Noten A/W 2000

I became beguiled by Dries Van Noten's 2000 Fall Ready to Wear collection and was reminded why I fell in love with Marc Jacobs with his collection of the same year. I've failed to embrace 'fierce' and these collections remind me why - I'm just a Bloomsbury set gal meets Park Ave Princess.

Dries Van Noten A/W 2000

Whilst most of you have no need in your daily toil to look back in detail at collections, if you do find a few moments then go back in time and see what inspires you for a clue to your style preferences. It helps to create a wardrobe of style not just high fashion.

Thought of the week - Contentment

When The Mercer Hotel in New York sent me a Happy New Year card last week, it brought a smile to my face.
My first thought was the fact they'd never sent me a card before when I was a good customer. Now I'm not a customer they must be chasing me to become one again, are times hard(er)? It was however, pleasant to be transported back to a glamorous time. A time when my friend and I would often say 'Ah the glamour of it all' as we were flown in by helicopter to the Monza F1 grand prix. When a shop was in order, off it was to New York or Milan. Selfridges was just a lunch time browse. I recalled popping into Gucci on Bond Street to help a colleague choose a belt and how I casually bought a bag without it denting my salary.

I haven't stayed at The Mercer since 2007 and in those three years I've become a make do, currently penniless soon to be awarded a Master's degree person, contemplating doing a Ph.D. I envisage a scenario where someone calls out 'is there a doctor' in a public place and I say 'yes' but of course I would only be a doctor in fashion so the most help I'd be is to advice the person in need of medical assistance not be caught short in that dreadful outfit again. Hardly a way to make friends and impress people!

Yet I used to be impressed by money and wealth. I was never wealthy enough to be considered rich. I was never stopped at Heathrow after a long weekend in NYC as I was hardly worth the effort, in fact my poor suitcase looked dreadful after a mauling by the US customs when I went to Philadelphia. Now I can't afford to buy a new one. What impressed my about money was the lifestyle you could lead. How it bought an ease. People did things for you, like open the door and when I stayed at The Mercer I could skip across to Prada and browse and they'd show me things give me coffee or champagne even though I rarely bought. It was the experience. However I became inured of it all to dull the sheer boredom and stress that was my job. This year will be the sixth year of my escape from corporate hell.

Working in a corporate is not hell to all. We all have different purposes and likes. This is a good thing we enjoy different things, but for me I felt like a caged animal. Shopping, wine, restaurants, travel etc. were a lifestyle addiction to compensate for the fact I hated my job. I couldn't articulate my dislike because it wasn't the companies fault, nor my colleagues, even the ones I viewed as idiots, no it was me. I was never cut out for it. I remember driving to work some days with the rest of the commuters and thinking what if we all just go home and refuse to pay our mortgages. This was not what others were thinking.

Being content is much underrated. Happiness is the one that gets all the focus - finding happiness is the holy grail. I prefer being content. Contentment means even when you feel a bit down you don't have any pressure. When you feel content you can look but not be envious; you can want but shrug your shoulders and still smile. You value the toothless person who asks you the time as much as business person who buys you coffee when you have a meeting in Carluccios.

I actually gave up my marketing job nearly six years ago and thanks to a generous payout and my work as a stylist I had time and money on my side for a while. Which again to some extent I squandered. Now in my content (but not smug) state I can safely say you won't find contentment in perfection (home, job, setting the dinner table just so), but you will find it by not setting your standards too high. You won't find contentment by using your credit card on an item you haven't got cash for, but if you manage on your income, paying bills first, having a contingency fund you'll feel easier. Planning for a pension will drive you up the wall regardless given the systematic abuse of pension funds by bankers et al.

Contentment is not a Chanel 2.55 bag*, it is appreciation of your life and well being - which doesn't mean to say luxury doesn't have its place but pleasure should be found in the humdrum of existence as well. If we could somehow all of us across the world find contentment then compassion will heal more suffering and question the defining drive of materialistic gain that cost lives. In the developing world poverty and disease kill but in the developed world a sense of worth costs countless lives. Last week many of us in the blogging community were shocked by news of a suicide that has immense implications for a family. Whilst money isn't the long term answer to such a matter in the short term it will provided food and sustenance. If you have a moment do read this post.

So apologies to The Mercer, what with Haiti and fellow bloggers in need, I'm afraid I'll keep the memories for now.

* I still want one. I'll freely admit to this shallow desire but it doesn't define me and it won't make me happy- well just a smidgen!

Thought for the week - size matters

It is a long time since I've discussed the issue of size and clothes but it is a reoccurring debate. Of late I've been reading and watching on TV lots of diet related articles and programmes. Firstly it is that time of year post Christmas but secondly I'm still unable to pick up a novel post Masters. IT is with a great deal of trepidation that I post it as with my last couple of posts, it falls into that iffy bracket of do I post or not. Without an editor making the decisions I panic about the wisdom of my choices. I am a risk taker but doubts will linger...

When it comes to the models are too thin debate and setting a bad example chorus -I'm always torn between the reality of making samples for shows and the cost of this, hence the requirement for a slim model so less material is used. Then there is the issue of a more equable visual representation of women but I just like looking at the clothes, the model doesn't really influence me much in my view of size or beauty.

Whitney Thompson Plus Size model (America's Next Top Model series winner)

Underlying the size debate is the stark truth of people, men and women being en mass heavier and bigger than they used to be. There is no doubt that many of the world's population lives in poverty with the rest having access to a glut of food stuff.

After decades of diets, nutritionists, dietitians and bio chemists are returning to the message of input and output. Calorie control or understanding is back in favour. If this is the case then might it mean the fashion industry is absolved of the negativity of using slim models. Leaving aside the fact the fashion industries preference for thin - will the shift on body image and weight issues return to the individual to take responsibility for their own health.

We know smoking kills you, and having tackled smoking and the tobacco industry - isn't it time to turn on the food industry and go after them for all the nasty ingredients they add to food stuff to make you be addicted to sugar and salt.

In my case I had a rude awakening with my fat hips. I suddenly put on 10lbs over a year. In part this was due to not running so much but also upon investigation I looked into my calorie intake. I don't wish to divulge the amount but if you check out the Pret website it handily gives you the calorie content of their food. I like Pret and it is nothing to do with them that I had no idea that a mid morning cappuccino, a lunchtime free range egg mayo sandwich and hippy shake would result in 612 calories. If I add anything else it gets worse. Basically I don't know how much I eat in calorie speak a day and this is the crux of my fat hips.

I do know to burn 1lb a week you need to cut down by 3500 calories or expend 3500 calories. The maths is really simple and the knowledge is simple too but yet I've been fooling myself or blissfully unaware about hidden calories such a glucose syrup acting as a sugar, which is more fattening or rather calorific than sugar itself!

I'm in the process of weaning myself off sugar - this will mean no more cappuccino's as they are wrong without the chocolate on top! I'm taking responsibility for fat hips and considering producing warning labels similar to the smoking ones. I can't deny petit garcon his occasional treats but I may have to stick 'This makes you fat' on his rich tea biscuits in case I try to sneak one. I'm not advocating not eating - I need my 2000 calories a day to function, but they should be from proper food, food the body can breakdown, digest and use. Can you imagine shopping in the supermarket and picking up foods with such a label on!

Are we delusional in our eating habits? Have we really forgotten to eat to jut fuel ourselves? We are all different shapes and sizes, much of which is laid down by our genes but are we adding the rest? Does any of this matter or is it just fashion?

Thought for the week - quality v quantity the 2009 top ten list

In November you all responded to my question of what top 5 quality items you would buy or desire. Of course most of you moaned that 5 is a tough call, however it did keep you focused and the result is a resounding top 10 list.

In no particular order this is the Make Do Style top 10 quality items as determined by you the readers (can you tell I'm missing X Factor!) from the items that got the most mentions.

1. A watch - the suggestions were Cartier, Tiffany tank, a gold Rolex and an Omega constellation
2. A bag - the brands cited were Bottega Veneta, Chanel, Mulberry to name a few
3. A scarf - Hermes and Louis Vuitton were mentioned
4. Pearl necklace
5. Beautiful jewellery - this included heirloom, diamond studs and a Wendy Brandes Empress Wu ring (forthcoming)
6. A beautiful or timeless coat - the list range from Max Mara, a shearling coat and a Margaret Howell Trench plus I'm adding a Moncler!
7. Great pair of shoes - Christian Louboutin, Prada and Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blahnik all got a vote of confidence but Chanel ballet pumps and also a couple of boots were mentioned
8. A gorgeous dress - Roland Mouret, vintage Ossie Clark, a beautiful black cocktail dress got a mention
9. White shirt
10. Great pair of jeans

And the nearly there... a pair of black trousers, a pencil skirt, a Chanel suit and a cashmere sweater...

Thought for the week - quality v quantity part 3

The main concern I have with fashion editors and magazines et al bestowing great virtue on quality style purchases, is this is determined by your available income.

I've read up and digest all the differing views on this matter and it basically distills down to one fundamental point - your disposable income. The problem is you have to choose what you buy very carefully if you have very little or no disposable income.


Think about planning your wardrobe as a map - a map of activities. If you are a stay at home mum for example then you need more casual clothes than going out items. I would recommend you buy more items but at lower prices for things around the home, a couple of easy but fashiony school run items and save up to buy a gorgeous dress and bag for going out. Make the dress a stylish designer number and the same with the bag. You have a special item to pull on for dinner dates, drinks with girl friends and an item you can keep. The idea is whether you are working, young carefree or burdened down by responsibility or mortgages, then plan your basics and build the fabulous stuff in year by year.

I think the less is more approach allows you to have goals and these goals mean carefully selected items that you will keep. TK Maxx and thrifting at charity shops and car boot sales are a great way of getting individual well made items by great designers.




As a rule of thumb I always keep any designer item I've bought and I include certain high quality retailers like Joseph in this category. But I do not buy overtly high fashion items from designers otherwise their glitz fades. And this is always a hard one to qualify or agree on but sometimes certain garments are of a moment and unless you've got money to burn be careful.

I bought a silver maxi skirt from Kate Moss's first Topshop collection which I was always keep and I have a New Look leather jacket which is a winner as it is very 70s and always comes in handy - but these are exceptions. I tend to wear out and never keep most of my high st buys in the long run. Although I don't buy expensive white tee shirts and I've had a Gap one for years.

Choosing style and slow fashion over the immediacy of trends and a jam packed wardrobe is quite hard but with planning, wardrobe mapping and a bit of patience fabulous pieces that work year in year out can be yours.

Thought for the week - quality v quantity part 2

Thank you for your contributions to this debate - which as ever are inconclusive! I mean this in a positive way because in one sense the phrase 'what is one man's pleasure is another man's poison' is as applicable for fashion as anything. The good thing is we do as we please to a certain extent. We take what we believe to fit into out lives and apply accordingly or even just do as we please.

So, this week I'm going to ask you for your top five items that you would spend serious money on - the things of quality you would buy to keep forever.

Thought for the week - quality v quantity part 1

Over the next few weeks I would like to debate this issue on the blog and today's post is just to kick the debate off.

There are two elements to the quality v quantity rationale. One is obviously it is deemed to be better to have a wardrobe of quality items that will last you years rather than lots and lots of cheaper disposable items. The quality angle is now perceived as more environmentally favourable adding weight to the debate of less is more.

However the other aspect of this debate is that of wealth and class - does the quality debate denote status/breeding(class)/intelligence versus the masses/lack of breeding/ignorance.

When you buy an item of quality do you feel superior style/fashion wise?

Thought of the week - the stuff of life

In the midst of wondering about ones wardrobe - I do this a lot, partly from habit and partly as a distraction to my current obsession, my dissertation - a whole host of events take place to create an experience far greater than what to buy, what you wished you'd kept, how to alter x item and thoughts on silk, draping and fair isle.

It is not often events overtake the self. I remain convinced that the ego is easily fed on materialistic pleasures and for one brief moment on Sunday before I checked my euro lottery numbers I was that person who had not claimed their £45m win. I managed to buy a town house in Marylebone, a country pile, an apartment in Paris and a house in the South of France. Since my property portfolio was under £20m I then moved onto the handbags I'd buy.

Luckily, my ego was brought back down to earth but more importantly it was fed by the proper wholesome stuff with the safe arrival in the early hours of Sunday morning of a little baby girl Hana May for my youngest sister, who went into labour due to being annoyed by the twins on X Factor!

Then we went for Sunday lunch at friends in Greenwich and had a delightful time with conversation, food, drink and the boys eating their food on a crisp sunny November afternoon in a tree house.

l to r: petit garcon and chums!

And today instead of dissertation, wardrobe matters or work I'm off to see my little niece. Although my ego wishes my sister had hung on for 8 more days so she could share my birthday.

Thought for the week - clothing allowance or budget

Beguiled as we are by the shows, the fashion magazines and fashion blogs, drawn to purchases of new items how often do we forget to budget or project for this occurrence? If you are a creature in need of a budget planner then this one is free to download at www.moneysavingexpert.com

image style.com

If you fancy strutting the streets next spring in Lanvin, then you need to start saving pronto. On my current budget I won't even be attempting to fake an interest in the forthcoming Jimmy Choo collaboration. But if you were to become budget obsessed then your clothes outgoings might run to a long list of options, imagine breaking it down to where you want to shop as well as a monthly allowance and things you want

• The Outnet
• High St designer collaborations
• Bicester Village
• Shoes
• Accessories
• monthly allowance

Seriously, I don't want to think about it in the context of consumption but the example above does mean you have to think about how, where and why you spend money on clothes, shoes, bags etc.

It is worth looking at it properly as you need to keep everything in perspective - we are lucky in the UK as is France with our truly national health systems. However the cautionary tale of Sister Wolf might make you rethink your shopping patterns and perhaps reflect on some of your pointless purchases. Set a realistic budget and actually it is okay not to buy new things if you can't afford it. Imagine you had no washing machine - that wardrobe stuffed of clothes isn't so appealing now...

Thought for the week - proportions

Far be it for me to give an art lesson in body proportions, the idealized 8 heads tall and breakdown of the positions from head to chin, chin to nipples etc. However, understanding body proportions can often be more helpful than focusing on body shapes.

Body shapes reveal where you store fat after puberty. Famously labelled Apple, Pear, Celery or Hourglass. I like to think of these shapes as triangle top, triangle bottom, rectangle and opposing triangles. How you understand shape and proportions helps to create an easier approach to dressing yourself.

I'm using an recent photo of myself which does show off using proportions quite well.


If the belt was higher and the shoes didn't have an ankle strap this would all be out of proportion. These factors are the most important. If I was wearing court shoes I would need to lose the belt or have a skinny one. I might need to pull the skirt down or up to keep the legs and body in proportion minus a belt. My hair is up, exposing my neck but if it were down, then all of this look would need adjusting.

Often the first thing we examine is our body shape, the bits we perceive as 'fat' and work to alter our view. But if you change to a proportions based analysis you might see how clothes can construct a head to toe look that creates a different image.

Thought for the week - style rules

When I'm working I always try to remember there are no rules. It helps when having to deal with whatever is thrown at you and in styling this is extremely useful. It means even if you've created a mood board with a director to deliver on a commercial you know it isn't set in stone.

So when the director says jump, you can say I'll give it a try - I never say how high!

I think this is a good idea when it comes to shopping for clothes or reappraising your wardrobe. It doesn't mean you can't decide what you like but it does stop you from limiting your options. When it comes to fashion trends, again there are no rules. you don't have to like it or go for a complete look and it also means you can change your mind. You can embrace something you thought wasn't a good look. It allows you to change tack over a previous dismissal - you won't catch me in harem pants/80s shoulders/cage skirt etc - oh you just did!

Last winter over tea and cakes Wee Birdy and I discussed dinner guest and she selected Anna Piaggi whom I was a bit dismissive off at the time. In fairness I had read The Beautiful Fall the summer before and was in team YSL mode. Yet the other day I caught a photo of her amongst the same old fashion crowd and I was filled with admiration.

Thought of the week - Creativity

The hardest element of teaching as opposed to just doing one's job is imparting confidence and knowledge in equal measures. When I teach trainee stylists I am always aware of the nurturing aspect of talent with need to know foundation that helps talent flourish. The point being a blend of creativity and common sense goes a long way.

I love the fact one of the trainee stylists is an organised turn up on time type. She managed to bag a styling job with Joanna Sykes, as the booked stylist she was assisting was late and they needed to press on. On the spot promotion!

One element of the styling course is colour. It is on this matter I am the least prescriptive. To keep it brief, there are no rules, when it comes to colour use your eye, experiment and add lipstick if you feel a bit drained. Reference nature for inspiration, flora is fab for experimentation. Reference fashion history and have fun. There is always a shade of a specific colour to suit you and skin tone which is yellow based for everyone always changes in different lights. Light reflects and refracts and in differing ways depending on the time of day and time of year.

You see the moment one engages with logic and reason the creativity begins to falter. I think there are enough rules in life to get bogged down with, I prefer the anything goes approach when it comes to colour and clothes.

D&G shirt
Reiss Skirt
Wolford purple tights
Topshop gold cuff bracelets
Pierre Hardy for Gap shoes not in picture!