Monday, 15 September 2008

London Fashion Week part 2

I love a trilogy. There is something about things in 3 that feels complete. Hence my predilection for three part(ers) when posting.

After the hat encounter, the lobby of Vauxhall Fashion Scout became host to a short black and white film. 'Undertone' the collection by Theatre De La Mode is described in the press release as 'avant-garde cuts, from softly tailored shirts to over-sized sleeve details, are translated into a melange of combined structured and lightweight fabrics in individual garments, merging cotton jersey in medium and light weights, Pique jersey, cotton twill jacketing...blah (that's me in case you are asleep) .....colours consist of monochrome base palette of navy, grey, sand and white with highlights in petrol grey and magenta (I'd say fuchsia pink as its a bit brighter than magenta but moving towards that spectrum of pink!).

the TDLM samples rails

I'd written .. 'simple constructed edgy preppy wear' and when I spoke to Chris one half of TDLM he didn't disagree. The other half of TDLM is Sara who is Scandinavian and I failed to get which country, but her surname is Flamm if that pinpoints where. Both designers were incredibly lovely and fresh. Chris explained he was very inspired by Poiret (Paul Poiret). I refrained from saying Poiret was the design genius that failed to pay attention to detail and commercial matters.

In fact so unconcerned was Poiret with the construction process, even he felt his clothes were beautiful from afar. Chanel was the masterful commercial genius, noting workmanship was critical to sales and steering garments to sleekness rather than draping. Poiret was groundbreaking with his deconstruction of clothes away from corsetry to draping, harem pants are credited to him. The remaining dispute of the day being, did Poiret or Chanel create the LBD. Certainly Poiret was first with a 'branding' detail of a signature rose as a motif on his clothing. Yet it is Chanel's camilla that remains

One could also cite his use of colour and his ground breaking kimono coats; which made an appearance in a diffused way in Marc Jacobs S/S 09 show last week in NY. The fact remains Paul Poiret was the first designer to launch a fragrance - so to be inspired by his genius is no mean thing. Except...I'd draw comparisons with TDLM's S/S 09 collection more firmly with Chanel. It was the sporty vibe and the uniformity of the look which reminded me of her wonderful translation of the Duke of Westminster's boat crew for women. The styling of model's in the short film lent an air of a tennis afternoon conjuring up The Great Gatsby or Just William depending on your view. It was fresh and the setting of the film failed to evoke the understated glamour of the clothes.

This duo have a lot to offer, they need a stylist (cough, cough) and to sort out their press releases. I won't overly bore you with the releases final sentence that included thus in its construction. If Chris and Sara grasps the commercial nettle of Chanel ( which KL embodies today even though Coco might not care for some of his designs) and still include the Poiret inspiration - they might be a theatre company worth some note.


  1. What a fascinating post, I love the historical connections you made. Even from just one photo I thought of Poiret, too!

  2. Hi there-what a great day for you, very fascinating info too. The colours in this collection are very vibrant and stunning.

  3. Really love the background information and the collection does sound interesting. I think I got the Just William reference in my head, tennis!

  4. I love love love that pink. At the moment I can't get enough of pink, in any shade.

  5. Great review am quite taken with seeing the short film. Any chance?

  6. When I think of Poiret I always think of the crazy hobble skirts that couldn't be walked in. I hope these guys don't sacrifice wearability for style - that's a common rookie mistake for designers, I think.

  7. Enc - you know me can't resist a bit of costume drama.
    SharonRose - actually the pink top, which is beautiful was the only vibrnat colour but the construction of the clothes were great.
    Fashion Addict- well it was the shorts that made me think Just William his classy sister of course, who always played tennis!
    Anon - I'll find out it would be good to be able to view it.
    Coco - the pink top was to die for I loved it and am completely with you and hearting pink big time too.
    Skye - don't worry the hobble skirt woudl have been so badly sewn ti woudl have fallen apart! TDLM's clothes were not of that nature. I think it was the loose cut that had more in common with Poiret!

  8. Fantastic!
    I wish i were there!!

    a kiss!!

  9. FINALLY!!! This post has been taunting me for the last two days. Every time I've tried to open it via my reader my connection drops out.

    I would never had gotten the Poiret reference had you not made it. But then that's a lot to ask from picture. OK now for part three...let's hope my connection doesn't drop out.

  10. I loved their film presentation though....


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